Brass is a restaurant that makes adults feel young. It’s got all the buzz of an Instagram-driven eatery aimed at the Gen Z trust-fund crowd, but with a higher comfort level, professional service, and a French-American menu that makes “traditional” trendy.
deep rooted in centuries Evelyn Hotel at 7 E. 27th St..,Plush and beautiful brass is an Art Deco-inspired jewelery box. Aimed to evoke the “golden age” of New York society, it is the latest entry in the burgeoning Nomad hotel-dining scene, which now also includes Café Carmellini in the Fifth Avenue Hotel, jose andres market and Zaitania at the Ritz-Carlton Nomad and Cecconi at The Ned.
Brass is the brainchild of the duo behind wildly popular bistro/wine bar WildAir, Jeremiah Stone and Fabian von Hauske Valtierra. They teamed up with owner Nick Hatsatori to take over the space that was formerly Benno’s, an upscale Italian spot that fell victim to the pandemic.
Brass opened last month with 70 seats on the heels of its “sister” venue Tusk Bar, the same team’s rowdy cocktail and oyster lounge down the hall. Hatstoris said patrons can “start their evening at Tusk Bar, then move to Brass.” Each has its own place, but given how hard it is to get tables at Brass, you may not be able to get in until you’ve slowly slogged your way through a few spots. King Tusk Martinis in Tusk,
My first visit, on Monday, there was silence in the house. Sexy with suede and leather banquettes, white tablecloths and 1920s-inspired frescoes – and an antique piano in the middle of the floor – there was a party waiting to get started. Some couples were lounging in solitude, while others were looking curiously at the brick wall through the skylight.
But on other nights there is a fire at this place. On my recent Wednesday visit, the level of glamor was matched by the food. Every meal should start with eight, buttery, Gruyere cheese gougères that can fill you up if you’re not careful.
Black truffles and rich, autumnal sauces add color to the menu without overpowering it. I loved the crunchy tartlets of crab and maitake mushrooms, topped with a tiny truffle and pillowy ricotta gnudi. Steelhead trout with smoked trout roe and delicate citrus sauce was pink and delectable under crispy skin.
The American Wagyu steak and pork shoulder in mustard sauce, both ordered medium-rare, were undercooked and over-chewy; Even my beef-loving friend who can do that eat raw armadillo Found the steak challenging with a tooth or knife (although he overcame it).
The pride of the house is deconstructed into Amish Chicken Roulade in a luxury key. The breast and leg are wrapped in skin, stuffed with sausage and cut into rounds under a herb and truffle mousseline. The deep flavor and moist bird graduated from a B-plus to an A with a light bath of extra juice. If there is not enough material in the tray then definitely ask for it. It costs $120 but can easily feed three or four normal humans.
It was hard to top, but the best dessert – the “Brass Cup” – was as fun as it was ridiculous, with Concord Granita slathered over popcorn ice cream.
The only nonsense is the soundtrack in brass. One night it veered randomly between romantic, French cabaret vocals and hard-core funk/rap. Other times, it came and went like a siren in the night.
To avoid this, go on a Tuesday, Friday or Saturday night when the piano is played by a human being – and the “golden age” comes alive again.
