East 52nd Street's extinct but once-fabulous frog, La Grenouille, croaked a lot this week.
Owner Philippe Masson announced the closure on Instagram on Wednesday, posting that he was “moving on to discover new territories and fulfill other dreams,” adding that “a lot of love, commitment and dedication has gone into making La Grenouille such an iconic destination.”
It marks the bitter end of an era when snobbish French restaurants known as “Les” and “La” dominated the haute cuisine realm, with limited reservation lists, outdated recipes — pheasant under glass, anyone fancy? — and women being given menus with no prices.
Only La Grenouille continues the old tradition to some extent. Places like La Seine, La Côte Basque and Le Hermitage have closed long ago.
Philippe's parents, Charles and Gisèle Masson, inaugurated La Grenouille during a blizzard in 1962. John F. Kennedy was president and Robert Wagner was mayor.
Shining like a mirror, adorned in red and gold, the jewel case became the center of New York's powerful people, for whom the expensive ($185 minimum, last checked) three-course menu wasn't even a rounding error.
Over the years it has attracted numerous celebrities and notables, including Frank Sinatra, Tony Bennett, Yves Saint Laurent, Diane von Furstenberg, Bianca Jagger, Sidney Poitier, Elizabeth Taylor, Shirley MacLaine, Salvador Dali, Sophia Loren, David Bowie, Truman Capote, Lee Radziwill, Madonna, Prince, Rod Stewart, Blake Lively, Adrien Brody and many more.
As Phillippe wrote on the Instagram post, “This was the real list of the most beautiful and iconic celebrities in the world.”
Famed chef Daniel Boulud told the Post that, when he first came to NYC in 1982, “La Grenouille was a reference in French cuisine, with its old-world elegance, charm, food and service that no other restaurant could replicate. It's sad to see it close.”
During my first visit in 1998, I was stunned to meet Henry Kissinger, Gianni Agnelli, and the most beautiful woman who was just six feet away from me.
Around 2000, Charles Masson Jr. – Philippe’s handsome older brother – took over running the restaurant from Charles Sr. and Gisèle.
He was known for filling the dining room with more flowers than a botanical garden, and he gave new life to his parents’ old establishment, revamping the menu and making it more welcoming to a younger clientele.
But losing the snoots also made the place less special.
In 2014, Philip replaced his brother as manager, but the reason behind this is still unclear. Soon after, their mother passed away. Since then, the two brothers have continued to fight the case in court.
Locals say everything changed under Philip's rule, though they could not be reached for comment.
Several old customers said he had made La Grenouille a sad caricature of its former self, and turned it into a part-time cabaret to showcase his singing talents at night.
Though the pretty flowers and frog legs remained, the old patrons departed in droves.
The concierge at the nearby Midtown Hotel, who did not want to be identified, said, “Nobody has asked me for a reservation there in ten years — not once.”
Last year, the restaurant was closed for five of the seven months because of a gas leak and the holidays.
Philip finally reopened it last January, and the crowds were thin, and there was an air of impending crisis, and even rumors that he was trying to sell the building.
Adding to the gloom was the usually empty outdoor dining room.
One thing La Grenouille still had going for it was its magnificent dining room. Not surprisingly, no one wanted to eat in the street.
The insect-infested structure still stands, a sad monument to what was once one of the city’s most iconic, elegant restaurants.
But its time has long passed. In its place have come modern, welcoming French restaurants such as Le Bernardin, Restaurant Daniel and Balthazar – as well as newer sections that include excellent spots such as Le Roc and Le Coucou.
Le Fin.
But Boulud is hopeful.
“Maybe one day,” he said, “the frog will jump again.”
